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Future forward beauty: Trends shaping the skincare industry in Rwanda

The roots of the skincare industry stretch back thousands of years to ancient civilizations. Early practices, pre-dating 1900, relied heavily on natural ingredients for skincare. The 19th century then witnessed the emergence of mass-produced skincare products.

Fast forward to 2014, when Foster Blake launched a skincare brand that has since grown to offer over a thousand products globally. These beneficial skincare products are sold worldwide, with best-selling brands particularly prominent in South Korea, Canada, the United Kingdom, and France. Today, we will explore how the beauty and cosmetic industry is developing within Rwanda.

The beauty and cosmetics industry in Rwanda has seen significant growth in recent years, becoming more than just about looking good; it’s now part of cultural expression. Rwanda’s cosmetics imports are expected to reach around $21 million by 2026, growing steadily at an average rate of 2.3% each year since 2001. While exports are smaller, they are also growing.

In Rwanda, there are over 12 registered board-certified dermatologists who play a crucial role in treating various skin conditions such as melasma and eczema. A dermatologist is a medical practitioner specializing in the diagnosis and treatment of skin disorders. Becoming a dermatologist is a rigorous path, requiring 12 years of study to earn the medical degree necessary for this title.

As technology continues to advance, new avenues for becoming a skincare professional have emerged. There are now online short courses that, upon completion, can lead to licensure as an esthetician. Over time, other skincare professionals have also been introduced into this field, including cosmetologists, estheticians, beauty specialists, and facialists, all of whom assist individuals with various skin concerns.

This field is considered highly competitive, largely because many business owners invest in selling skincare products such as cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens. These products are often shipped worldwide, with Korean skincare products frequently preferred over European ones due to their perceived effectiveness.

The Rwandan market mostly uses imported beauty products, mainly from Europe, the United States, and China. Popular items include foundations, lipsticks, eye shadows, and general skincare products.

The use of makeup in Rwanda is most common among women, especially in cities like Kigali, ranging from young women in their late teens to professionals in their 40s. While urban women are the main users because they have better access to products, makeup use is slowly spreading to rural areas, though availability and cost can be issues.

Rwandan women use makeup for many reasons, including self-expression, improving their looks, fitting in with social norms, and boosting confidence. In professional settings, makeup is often seen as important for making a good impression.

However, the industry faces challenges. Local production often depends on importing raw materials and equipment, which can make “Made in Rwanda” cosmetic products more expensive. Despite this, there’s growing interest in local manufacturers who offer natural, skin-friendly alternatives that suit Rwandan women’s specific needs.

Cephas Nshimyumuremyi, Founder and Director General of a local brand called “Uburanga,” emphasized this focus in an interview with Africanews: “We make sure that the products we manufacture are intended in particular for Africa and that they are natural. Other products containing chemicals are predisposed to destroy the skin.”

Users like Marie Mukamuhigwa attested to the effectiveness of such local offerings to Africanews, stating, “I started using Uburanga products because I suffered from terrible acne and it used to make me feel uncomfortable… it cleared the spots on my face.”

Another emerging local player is Her Majesty Cosmetics, founded by Vanessa Uwase, a former Miss Rwanda. Uwase noted the personal challenge that led to her venture in an interview with Sens Magazine: “As a black woman based in Rwanda, finding products that match my skin tone without giving me a breakout was always a hassle.”

This highlights a crucial gap in the market that local brands are striving to fill. Despite their international manufacturing under the guidance of professionals, Farouq Faddha, Managing Director of Her Majesty Cosmetics, acknowledged an initial hurdle to Sens Magazine: “Our major challenge in the market was the ‘mistrust’ clients had for their products because of their localized branding.”

However, the brand has found success by addressing specific needs. Naomie Ishimwe, Miss Rwanda 2020 and a brand ambassador, praised the inclusivity to Sens Magazine, stating, “As a brown skinned girl, it was never easy to find the right foundation to match my skin tone, until Her Majesty came on board.”

To protect consumers, the Rwanda Food and Drug Authority (FDA) plays a vital role. They have strict rules for product registration, ensuring products meet safety standards. They ban products containing harmful substances like mercury, lead, and hydroquinone above certain levels.

All cosmetics must have clear labels in at least one of Rwanda’s official languages, listing ingredients according to international standards (INCI). This regulation helps fight against fake products and ensures consumer safety.

Speaking on the dangers of illicit products, Joseph Kabatende, former coordinator of pharmaceutical services at the Ministry of Health, stated in 2015 via a Rwanda FDA press release (also cited by publications like Future Policy and ResearchGate) that “cosmetics listed as prohibited are those that contain ingredients that are harmful to human health, adding that the dangers of using such cosmetics include cancer and severe skin conditions.” In fact, authorities have increased efforts to confiscate illegal and harmful skin-lightening products.

The rise of e-commerce is also changing the beauty industry in Rwanda. Online platforms make products more accessible and influence consumer choices, driven by social media trends and the ability to find a wider range of products.

Many women tend to invest their money in buying skincare products to enhance their confidence and physical appearance. However, this trend has also led to some sellers distributing counterfeit products for profit. Despite the risks of fake products, some women across the country continue to use them, often driven by the desire for social acceptance and the influence of social media trends.

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